Yakushima, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is home to breathtakingly beautiful, untouched nature. Among its many wonders, none exudes a more mystical presence than the Jomon Sugi, an ancient cedar tree estimated to be thousands of years old. In this article, we’ll share in detail the allure of the Jomon Sugi tour, where you can truly feel the breath of life from ancient times.
While the highlights of this tour are undoubtedly the Jomon Sugi and Wilson Stump—with its famous heart-shaped hollow—there are many other sights worth seeing along the way. We invite you to read on until the end and discover them all.
What is the Jomon Sugi? – The Miracle Giant Tree Nurtured by Yakushima
The Jomon Sugi is a colossal Yakusugi cedar tree native to Yakushima. As its name suggests, it is believed to have lived since the Jomon period, making it truly deserving of the title “a living fossil.” Estimates of its age vary, ranging from 4,000 to as much as 7,200 years, and as the largest cedar discovered in Japan, its grandeur is undeniable.
Yakushima is known for its abundant rainfall—so much so that locals often say it rains “35 days a month.” This plentiful rain, combined with the island’s unique topography and diverse vegetation, has nurtured Yakushima’s rich ecosystem over millennia, including the Jomon Sugi. In recognition of its rare natural environment, approximately 20% of the island was inscribed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 1993.
Interestingly, most Yakusugi trees on the island do not grow very large, as they often face harsh conditions. Strong winds and the heavy weight of snow frequently break their branches or twist their trunks, making it difficult for giant cedars to survive. Against these odds, the Jomon Sugi has managed to endure, thriving at the highest altitude where cedars can live on the island. This remarkable survival is often regarded as one of Yakushima’s greatest natural miracles.
Way to Johmon Sugi
Many blogs and tour websites describe the Jomon Sugi trek as quite demanding—and personally, I also found it tough. I hope this information will be helpful for those who may be worried about their physical stamina.
That said, if your goal is just to reach Wilson Stump, you’ll still need some endurance, but you can almost certainly make it there and back in a single day—so rest assured.
The full Jomon Sugi trekking course is about 22 kilometers round trip and takes roughly 10 hours to complete. Along the way, there are steep inclines and slippery sections, so proper gear and sufficient stamina are essential. Since Yakushima’s weather can change quickly, rain gear is a must. For environmental conservation, it’s also recommended that hikers bring a portable toilet.
For reference, I joined a private tour with my parents (both in their 60s). We started at the trailhead around 6:00 a.m. and returned at 5:45 p.m., completing the hike in about 12 hours. We made it through, but we were completely exhausted! (This was at the end of December.)
Typically, a standard Jomon Sugi tour follows the route below.
From the Arakawa trailhead to the trolley path
The trek usually begins at the Arakawa Trailhead, from where hikers follow the old trolley track, once used as a forest railway. This path stretches for about 8 km and is relatively flat and easy to walk. Along the way, you’ll hear the songs of birds and spot moss-covered tracks flanked by Yakushima’s unique plant life. Moving slowly through the forest, you’ll quickly forget the noise of city life—this peaceful walk is pure bliss.
Since this was late December, it was still dark in the early morning. A headlamp is essential, and if you don’t have one, tour operators generally offer rentals. Be cautious: some sections of the trail lack handrails, and a misstep could send you tumbling into a ravine or river. Stay focused and move carefully.
I took this picture on my way back to the starting point, I was walking in the dark in such a place.
I was lucky enough to see wild yak deer and Yakushima monkeys.
【Places of interest along the trolley road】
Nio Sugi (Guardian Cedars):
Along the trolley track, you’ll encounter the mighty Nio Sugi. True to its name, these cedars resemble the imposing guardian statues often found at temple gates. Two massive trees stand side by side, their powerful presence leaving hikers in awe.
Sandai Sugi (Three Generations Cedar):
This sacred tree represents life passed down over thousands of years. The current cedar is said to be the third generation, continuing a lineage that has endured for more than three millennia.
When we set out, it was still pitch dark, so a headlamp was essential. By the time we reached the start of the mountain trail, the sun was rising and illuminating the path. Before beginning the climb, there are two designated rest stops—these are also the last points with toilets available. Beyond this, the only option is to use a portable toilet at a much higher point along the trail.
From the entrance of the large stump trail to a full-fledged mountain trail
Once the trolley track ends, you’ll arrive at the Okabu Trail Entrance—the starting point of the true mountain path. From here, the trail becomes much more demanding, with steep stairways, exposed tree roots, and rugged terrain. Some sections are slippery or uneven, so sturdy hiking boots and trekking poles are essential. Trekking poles can usually be rented from your tour company if you request them in advance.
Highlights along the Yakusugi Trail
One of the notable spots here is the location used for the poster of the movie “Be with You” (Ima, Ai ni Yukimasu).
Okina Sugi (Elder Cedar):
Although it collapsed in 2010, the Okina Sugi was once cherished as one of Yakushima’s great trees, second in grandeur only to the Jomon Sugi. While its towering form can no longer be seen, the site still allows visitors to reflect on its former majesty. Standing here, you can feel both the harshness of nature and the quiet passage of time.
Wilson Stump:
One of Yakushima’s most iconic sights, the Wilson Stump is among the largest tree stumps in Japan. Once a massive cedar, it was felled during the Edo period. Today, visitors can step inside the hollow trunk, and when looking up from a certain angle, the opening above reveals a beautiful heart shape—a famous photo spot beloved by many hikers.
The light filtering through the stump creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere, adding to its mystique. Standing here, you can sense not only the sheer scale of the tree that once stood but also the cycle of life, as the stump now nurtures new growth and life in the forest.
Meoto Sugi (Married Couple Cedars):
These two cedars are named for their appearance, as if they are leaning close together like a long-time married couple. Although their trunks are not joined at the base, each tree grows independently—yet the sight of them standing side by side evokes the deep bond of lifelong partners. It’s a moving example of nature’s artistry.
Daio Sugi (Great King Cedar):
Before the discovery of the Jomon Sugi, the Daio Sugi was considered the largest cedar on Yakushima. Its towering height rivals even that of the Jomon Sugi, and its massive trunk bears the marks of countless centuries. The sheer presence of this tree inspires awe and reverence.
And Finally, the Encounter with the Jomon Sugi
After encountering countless cedars along the way, you finally arrive at the Jomon Sugi viewing deck. The sight that greets you is nothing short of overwhelming.
From the platform, the Jomon Sugi towers before you—its colossal trunk firmly rooted in the earth, while its sprawling, intricate branches stretch skyward. The ridges and grooves carved into its bark over thousands of years, now cloaked in a soft layer of moss, radiate a sense of immeasurable life force. Standing there face-to-face with this ancient cedar, you feel a profound awareness: that we are but a small part of nature, living only a fleeting moment in the grand timeline of the Earth.
Estimated to be between 2,100 and 7,200 years old, the Jomon Sugi is recognized as the largest Yakusugi cedar on the island. Its very presence embodies both the mystery of deep time and the resilience of life itself.
The best part of being on tour
Yakushima is often called the “Island of Water” thanks to its abundant water resources. As you hike along the trails and through the forests, you’ll encounter countless clear streams and fresh springs flowing all around you. This pristine water is renowned as some of the purest drinkable natural spring water in Japan.
The island’s geology is made up primarily of granite, a rock type that does not easily release minerals. As a result, rainwater is naturally filtered as it seeps through the ground, producing soft water with a smooth taste and no harshness.
If you have the chance, take a moment to fill your bottle and brew a cup of coffee during your rest stops. Sipping coffee made with Yakushima’s fresh spring water, surrounded by untouched wilderness, is an unforgettable experience.
Preparation and Tips for Enjoying the Jomon Sugi Tour Comfortably
The Jomon Sugi tour is challenging, but with the right preparation, even beginners can take it on with confidence.
Essential Items to Bring
- Hiking boots: Waterproof and with good ankle support are ideal.
- Rainwear: A breathable, two-piece (jacket and pants) set is recommended. Yakushima’s weather changes quickly, so this is a must.
- Backpack: Choose one with enough capacity so you can keep your hands free.
- Snacks and drinks: There are no vending machines or shops along the way. Bring rice balls, bread, chocolate, or other easy-to-eat foods, plus plenty of water.
- Headlamp: Important for early morning starts or in case of delays.
- Trekking poles: Help reduce strain on your legs and improve balance.
- Warm clothing: Even in summer, it can be chilly at higher elevations. A light fleece is useful.
- Change of clothes: For after sweating or getting wet in the rain.
- Portable toilet: At higher points, there are booths, but you must bring your own kit.
Optional but Useful Items
- Portable phone charger: Essential if you plan to take many photos.
- Personal medicine: Bring what you need regularly.
- Wet wipes and towel: Handy for sweat or dirt.
- Trash bags: All garbage must be carried back with you.
Safety and Etiquette Tips During the Tour
- Walk at your own pace: Don’t push yourself. Take breaks when needed. On stairs or steep steps, move slowly, one foot at a time, to save energy.
- Follow your guide’s instructions: This is essential for safety.
- Respect nature: Don’t touch plants or animals, and don’t remove rocks or natural materials.
- Watch for falling rocks or branches: Stay aware of both the ground and overhead.
- Use toilets in designated places: Portable toilets may be required for environmental protection.
- Be aware of cell reception: Some areas have little to no signal.
※(Items highlighted in green, such as trekking poles and headlamps, can usually be rented from tour operators—reserve in advance.)
Recommended Tour Companies
We arranged a private tour through Yakushima Messenger. In group tours, you need to match the pace of everyone else, but with a private guide, the schedule is adjusted to your own rhythm.
Our guide from Yakushima Messenger was incredibly friendly and easy to talk to. They shared fascinating stories about Yakushima, pointed out details we might have missed, and even showed us the best spots for photos. Thanks to their guidance, we were able to enjoy every moment of this long trek and complete the tour safely.
Yakushima Messenger is also featured in travel guidebooks such as Rurubu, which shows how well-regarded their tours are.
The best season for Yakushima is
The Jomon Sugi tour is available year-round, but the best seasons to visit are spring (April–June) and autumn (September–November). During these times, the weather is relatively stable, and you can also enjoy the fresh greenery of spring or the colorful autumn foliage.
In summer, the heat can be challenging, while in winter, snowfall is possible—so extra preparation is required.
That said, even in winter, Yakushima covered in snow has a unique charm. I personally found the snowy landscape absolutely beautiful!
Summary
I was able to learn a great deal about Yakushima’s history, gain a deeper understanding of the Yakusugi cedars, and truly appreciate their importance. At the end of the tour, I even purchased a teacup made from Yakusugi wood as a souvenir.
It’s important to note that Yakusugi trees can no longer be felled. Only domaiboku—Yakusugi that has been buried underground and naturally preserved—can be processed. As these supplies are steadily diminishing, the rarity and value of Yakusugi crafts are increasing. It is even said that one day, it may no longer be possible to produce such local specialties at all.
So, I encourage you to visit Yakushima and see the Jomon Sugi for yourself. Experience this mystical world with all five senses—it’s a journey that will stay with you for a lifetime.
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